Isle of Portland

A quick intro to climbing on Portland Dorset which is situated about 2 miles south of Weymouth, reached by driving down the A354 across Chesil beach. Famous for its limestone which is sort by masons and climbers from around the world. 

   Link To a hand drawn Map    or a    Link to a commercial  Map                   Please Click on the Photos to Enlarge

One of the largest quarries in Europe.                     

South Portland and lighthouse Area.

     (left)      The view from the top of the lighthouse looking north east to CaveHole.  (right) looking north west from the lighthouse towards the coastguard cliff.

 One of the many Portland roofs.  Geoff Turner finishing off a quick 6a/7c  solo circa 1990.                

                The notice on the pulpit rock.   

Battleship Area

July 2000 The Battleship area can be reached from Reap Lane in Weston. Park the car near vacant ground just south of a bus stop and make for the a footpath leading west towards the cliffs. Car parking can be a bit of a problem in the summer and visitors are advised to be considerate to locals. Almost at the end of the footpath is and easy way down from Battleship edge. This way down should take you south to the foot of The Misanthrope 6B.

(photo left) Battleship block slab. on the left and Battleship back cliff on the immediate right. Blacknor central can be seen in the distance.

Classic Battleship Edge....................Photos show some of the classic climbs.

Blacknor North. Another very popular area that is well bolted and with easy access. Blacknor is on the west side of Weston. Travel down Westcliffe Road which is just off the main road through Weston, opposite some shops. Continue along Westcliffe Rd through a housing estate until you see a sign pointing to a Climbers and Walkers Car Park, turn left and quickly right into a small parking lot by a transmitter mast. On foot follow a path to the cliffs and head north along a good path which goes past some very large stacked blocks from the old quarry and across the front of a fort to an easy bouldering area above the cliff. Just passed this is a muddy slot and steep path which heads back south to Blacknor North. Go past some red painted signs on the rock saying "Climbing Banned" or something in that vain to an obvious area of sandy coloured flowstone some 80 feet high, this is the reptile. It is possible to continue walking further on back south to the car park this way with care past the fallen slab area and back up to the car park via an insitu rope hidden in an easy gully. This makes an enjoyable end to the days climbing and a quick boulder on the large slab below should not be ruled out (see photo right).  Though the rock here can be a little strange it wont take long before you are flying up the flowstone like a local. One of the first climbs many people do is the Reptile Smile, probably because it is one of the most talked about climbs off the Island, the Reptile is sometime a bit wet in the winter and takes some time to dry but just a few feet either side is good quick drying limestone which makes a pleasant venue on a sunny winters evening as the sun burns the rock as it sinks into the sea behind you!

Just north of the reptile flow stone area is a good section of slightly higher rock (see picture left with climber just about to top out) with some good 2 and 3 star masterpieces such as Meg's Got Leukaemia E1 5b(6a) and Freaky Ralph E7 6c (8a), take your pick from about 16 climbs.

Sling shot wall. Further on past a large dirty chimney is a wall (Sling Shot Wall) just left of a blunt arête. Moving further round sees a large flowstone formation where some bolts have been removed. Reptile Smile and Slings Shot take this flowstone.

  On the right of Reptile is Cakewalk E1 5b (6a) A good outing, up the crack and out left to the pipes and good holds to lower off bolts up left of the final bulge. Sometimes the finish is a bit wet in winter but very doable with care.

Fallen Slab or Block (Blacknor South). Below a large black slimy cliff and Sharbutt's quarry and a water pipe exit is the fallen slab area. A good area for beginners with easy slopes and VDiffs. Worth a good look ! 

The Cuttings. The cuttings is a good place to go when the weather is poor, The rock faces east and hence is out of reach of the prevailing west winds. Again if you have a car please park with consideration for others. The cutting is easily reached by following a footpath east opposite the Glen Caravan Holiday Park in south east Easton. In the last 10 years the cutting has changed dramatically with a New Cutting being carved out of the rock after heavy earth moving when a pipeline was laid. There are a few trad routes as well as the bolts. The exits of most trad climbs at the Cuttings is best described as dubious with soft crumbly rock held together with dust. Having said that the quality of rock below this level is very good and the exits can easily be avoided by placing a sling or two or six over the top of the cliff using the odd stake or block provided. The bolted climbs are in the higher grades and sport lower off points.  

note :- Since this was written the old trad routes have been bolted and easier bolted routes can be found on the sloping track which leads down to the main area.

Bouldering. Walking down the track from the road and turning right leads to a good bouldering area and some short but hard bolted routes, this is known as The New Cuttings. Again this is a good retreat when the weather turns bad. Below the cuttings is a bigger boulder field which is yet to be developed but shows good potential.

The Track Routes. Photos below show in order from left to right the track down to the Cuttings and the bricked up cave. Most of these routes are in the 4c to 5b range with Hillman The Hunter E2 6a (6b+) starting under the grey bricks which can be seen near the finish. Just click on the photos and all will be revealed!

The Great American Hamburger Disaster 4c  (5b). A crack just before the cemented track.

The Sod 4c (5a+). Start just right of the big block lying on the floor at the end of the track.  

Sign Of the Vulcan E6 6c (7c). Just right of the Sod. A Vulcan slot!

 Hillman The Hunter E2 6a (6b+). Moving right and just around the corner below the bricks. Undercuts to a bulge then the bricks and slightly left to finish.

The Cutting Edge E3 6a (6c). The fab arête that dominates the next corner. Difficult start.

Brief Encounter 5b (6a+). In the centre of the main cutting over the drain mound and behind a bush. Another good route. Climb the right groove. Difficult start on crimps to the first bolt, then follow the well worn path to the lower off bolts slightly out left above a bulge, which again can be a bit difficult.