Llanberis Pass   (The Pass)    North Wales 

One of the most famous places to climb in the UK.                      click on photos to enlarge

Petes Eats Circa 1999

Pete's Eats . Usually before a day on then rock most climbers start at Pete's Eats. Recently Pete's cafe has been enlarged and modernised and has lost a bit of its original character, even so it's still the place to be seen in Llanberis. Whilst on the subject of food the Curry House a few doors up does a good ruby and stays open well after the Vaynor Arms stops doing food.

View of the Dinas Cromlech from the road. The Cromlech sports the famous Cemetery Gates and the Cenotaph Corner (seen below ).Cenotaph Corner E1 5c July 2002

 Cenotaph Corner E1 5C. Start below the obvious vertical crack after a scrabble up to the start platform. The crux comes towards the end of the climb (last 15ft) and is quite difficult especially if you are tired. The rest is good clean climbing with a lot of bridging although the bottom is a bit polished.  In the summer when it is very hot, wait til after lunch when the sun has moved around and the climb becomes shaded, ...nice!. 

Left Wall 5C E2. Probably the most climbed 5C in the UK. Start midway between the wall left of Cenotaph Corner and trend left to a ledge and rest. Follow a crack till it forks. Follow the crack left for the crux and a long runout to the arete or go straight up for a more difficult finish.

Left Wall E2 5c July 2002

Left Wall E2 5c July 2002

Left Wall E2 5c July 2002 .... Direct Finish

Left Wall E2 5c July 2002 .... Direct Finish

Left Wall E2 5c July 2002 .... Direct Finish

Left Wall Crux .... July 2002

 

 

 

 

Resurrection E4 6a. A superb climb which lives up to it's grade. Start just right of Left Wall, see photos of climber, also a good view of Left Wall and the Y crack.

Resurection E4 6a July 2002Resurection E4 6a July 2002Resurection E4 6a July 2002Resurection E4 6a July 2002

Climber on Resurection

 July 2002.

 

 

Cemetry Gates E1 5b .... July 2002 drier than it looks...

 

On the right of the jungle is the famous Cemetry Gates E1 5b/4c. Start out on a wooded ledge to the right of "Right Wall", Follow the wide obvious crack to a good ledge belay, then out right to an airy finish but loaded in jugs.

 

Noah's Warning (Dinas Cromlech) VS 4c,5a, 200ft. Noah's Warning (Dinas Cromlech) VS 4c,5a, 200ft. Good wall climbing with a A great elephants back finish. View photo by leaning right to get a feel of the steepness of the wall.

Flying Buttress Start

 

Entering The chimney on Flying Buttress.

Flying Buttress (Dinas Cromlech ) V Diff (High in grade) 300ft. Possibly the most famous V Diff in the UK. Starts to the right of the Cromlech and follows a line to the left and some spires, up to a difficult chimney as seen in the photo below. Usually done in 2 or 3 pitches.

 

The Mot seen from the Cromlech .... July 2002

 

Dinas Mot .... Dinas Mot .... On the opposite side of the pass to the Cromlech.  Nice and cool in the summer. Climbers on Diagonal HVS 5a,5a,5a,4c. A great route and harder than it looks. Interesting moves around to the right under the roof seen in the center of the photo.Wind

 

Brant

 

Clogwyn Y Grochan .... A little way further down the valley from the Cromlech closer to the road and Llanberis is the Grochan, a good place to go if the weather looks a bit dodgy and you are convinced you want to climb in the pass. The Brant Direct HVS 5a is a good test pitch with a good ab from a tree off to the right at about 80ft.

Clogwyn Y Grochan

Wind....HVS 5b A great pitch 90ft with a stiff move near the start (climber in photo at crux). Start about 40ft right of Brant and make your way to a difficult committing move and a long reach to safer ground. Continue up to very easy ground and many fixed belay's, obviously a popular route.

 

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