Craig Bwlch y Moch  --- Tremadog

Craig Bwlch y Moch or Tremadog    is located on the A498 Porthmadog to Beddgelert road. Heading out of Porthmadog (2 miles) the crag is easily recognizable on the left side of the road opposite the cafe as seen in the photo. Surrounded by trees at it's base this crag holds some of the best VS climbs in the UK (It say's here). All the climbs are located just off the road a few yards east from the cafe, entering the small forest takes you to a myriad of small paths trailing around the base of the rock, often very slippery, laden with mosquitoes and easy to get lost with the occasional snake (adders have been seen July 00). Park the car in the cafe car park and pay 50p for the privilege, a good tip is to harness up in the car park and  don't leave anything at the base of the climb as the walk off is fairly long and the round trip may take longer than you think. A quick look at the BMC sign post will ensure that getting lost is not an option for the first time visitor (well we got very lost trying to find several climbs).

Most climbs are about 100ft and finish at a small path which leads to a rambling walk off. Some climbers clip their trainers to their harness for the climb down the crumbling path.

The famous Eric Jones owns the cafe, camp site and bunk houses at Tremadog. tel  01766 512199 to book.

Check out Erics adventures from the photo's and books in the cafe. 

The BMC sign located at the bottom of the crag near the road.

left    The view from Shadrach 4c VS, a recommended climb with the crux possibly being the famous long step from a large block at about half height. I found the optional chimney start a "must" and quite spartan, gear wise. The belay point halfway is very adequate.

right Looking down from the Shadrach belay.  

The airy Shadrach step.

Another recommended climb is Striptease 4c VS a classic Joe Brown climb with a difficult start and good belay point on a tree where everybody seems to ab back down from instead of completing the last few feet which are a bit drossy. 

Take your jungle kit which should include mosquito spray and snake bite anti venom.