signpost (A26) is approx 500yds south west of the outcrop.
Eridge Green
Rocks
Located just
off the main A26 road to Tunbridge Wells from
Crowborough. Just west of Eridge Church is a small road which leads to
car park by a string of
sandstone facing east.
Purchased by Sussex Wildlife Trust in 1996 and
designated an SSSI for its rare ferns, mosses and liverworts. The BMC
and Sussex Wildlife Trust have developed a formal access agreement for
the rocks.
Please note that access is permitted
to climbs
No: 1-36, 58-60 & 75-180 (ref: 1995 CC Guidebook 1995). Climbing
is not permitted on the other routes. Climbing is allowed from Heffalump
(1) to Dr Kemp's Cure (36), from Sandstorm (58) to More Cake for Me
(60), and from Dusk Crack (75) to Tower Girdle (180) inclusive (numbers
as in the Climbers' Club
Guide to Southern Sandstone 1995 by Mike Vetterlein).
Climbing outside these zones is forbidden. The area between
(58) and (60) is particularly sensitive, due to rare mosses, so please
be extra careful here. Use of chalk is forbidden from Sandstorm (58) to
More Cake for Me (60) inclusive. Please use chalk elsewhere as little as
possible as chalk changes the pH of these acid rocks and can seriously
damage the lower plants.. Eridge Green is of
national importance both for its rare mosses, lichens and other lower
plants, and for
geological reasons. Some plants found here are internationally
threatened. It also has archaeological importance.
For further information about the nature reserve
please contact Sussex Wildlife Trust
(Tel: 01273 492630). Please support this arrangement.
.
An area for the
slightly more experienced climber but well worth a visit after a dry spell as
these
rocks
are well secluded and dry slowly
in the winter (face east). Over a hundred climbs, most in the 5b/c
bracket although there are a
few easier climbs. Because of recent clearing of shrubs access to the rocks is a
bit more
pleasant than it
used to be but this is still a quieter and less
visited area than most.
Climbs are in the
region
of 20ft and are reached by the footpath which navigates around the rock from the
south via the new car park. Climbs start with "Siesta Wall 5b" just above the car park and go on up the path
north to "Portcullis 5c" but hidden away in the forest and undergrowth to the
South West is a small esoteric area worth a quick peek on a hot day. No bolts
are available for belays so tying to trees is
commonplace but can be a bit prickly.


Innominate Buttress
6a Just to the
right of Siesta Wall is a slight bulge before a large crack,
Take this directly up the bulge to a difficult stance above the
roof and an easier finish. some give it
5c.
Innominate Crack 5a.
The obvious crack on the right.


Equilibrium Wall 5a/b.
Start to the left of the large gap and
make your way carefully across to the left and an easy exit (see
photos).

Nuthin Fancy 5b.
Just to the right of the large gap is a tricky start to wall
and small break.

Libra 5b. Start almost as for
Nuthin and trend right up
the
obvious mild arête.
Too Short 5c.
About 5ft right of Libra. Difficult start on a small overhang then
trend slightly left to an almost impossible reach for the short
(nice name) to a nice hole.




Trainer Drainer 5c. The difficult
overhanging start to a nice jug then move out left, not right !
Hanging Crack 5a.
Take the crack straight up. See the photo, Trainer Drainer
can be seen on the left of Loz



Prowess 6a.The next arête. Finish up
the double arête.

Flake Crack 3a. Take the crack. Harder than it looks.
Cracking Up 6a.
Take the right hand side of the obvious crack
  
A few yards on is a little cave with
some interesting 6a
problems. Parisian Affair
6a starts immediately
on the left hand side of the cave with Too Short To Mention
6a
taking the first
section of the roof. Parisian Affair has a cheat start by leaning left off the
boulder next door (if you want to cheat ?).
  The
photos
left/right show the
cave routes.


Sandstorm Area. Sirocco
6b. (Banned Area) Takes the left hand side of the vertical crack.
Sandstorm 6a. Takes the right
side of the crack. Take the overhang and move left, then into a scoop on
the right. Exit where you can!
The Crunch 6b. Take the soft
arête to the right of Sandstorm direct or via traverse (right). Up the
arête and then on to the exit of Sandman.
More Cake for me 6b.Where the
traverse for The Crunch starts go up?

An older photo of the
Amphitheatre area.
Usually very green and damp.
Moving north along the path via an S bend the following
climbs are reached.


Roman Nose
area
At the end of the outcrop system is the Portcullis Area,
marked by a castle buttress
shaped block of sandstone which melts into the earth at its western
flank.

PORTCULLIS 5c.
Take the obvious
crack under the big square block, this takes you easily out right
to the
base of the block and a small roof. Go out left then right on the wall
to small holds and finish on the left of the block. Some use a
heel hook on the left arête to gain stability.


BATTLEMENT CRACK 5a.
Just to the left of Portcullis is a large crack. Go up the crack
and then move out left to trickier holds and a difficult sandy
finish. Fully recommended!!

STEAMROLLER 5c.
Just to the left of Battlement Crack ....Up the centre of
the wall
to a difficult finish. Some say it's a 6a?
BARBICAN BUTTRESS
4b. Tricky little
number this! up the crack left of
Steamroller to a
difficult move to finish slightly left.

Something a little different. Just
west of the car park through the trees finds a
Columnar
Boulder with a
couple of short but fun climbs." Columnar
Buttress 4a" and "Primrose 4c".
Further
to the right on the boulder in the moss is "Japs Eye
5b". Horrible finish up green stuff.
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