At the back of this signpost is the rocks but easier access is obtained by the church a bit further up the A26.        signpost (A26) is approx 500yds south west of the outcrop.

Eridge Green Rocks

 

Located just off the main A26 road to Tunbridge Wells from Crowborough. Just west of Eridge Church is a small road which leads to car park by a string of sandstone facing east.

Looking north from the car park.Purchased by Sussex Wildlife Trust in 1996 and designated an SSSI for its rare ferns, mosses and liverworts. The BMC and Sussex Wildlife Trust have developed a formal accessInnominate Crack Area seen from the car ! agreement for the rocks.

Please note that access is permitted to climbs No: 1-36, 58-60 & 75-180 (ref: 1995 CC Guidebook 1995).  Climbing is not permitted on the other routes. Climbing is allowed from Heffalump (1) to Dr Kemp's Cure (36), from Sandstorm (58) to More Cake for Me (60), and from Dusk Crack (75) to Tower Girdle (180) inclusive (numbers as in the Climbers' Club Guide to Southern Sandstone 1995 by Mike Vetterlein). Climbing outside these zones is forbidden. The area between (58) and (60) is particularly sensitive, due to rare mosses, so please be extra careful here. Use of chalk is forbidden from Sandstorm (58) to More Cake for Me (60) inclusive. Please use chalk elsewhere as little as possible as chalk changes the pH of these acid rocks and can seriously damage the lower plants..    Eridge Green is of national importance both for its rare mosses, lichens and other lower plants, and for
geological reasons. Some plants found here are internationally threatened. It also has archaeological importance. 

For further information about the nature reserve please contact  Sussex Wildlife Trust (Tel: 01273 492630).  Please support this arrangement. .

An area for the slightly more experienced climber but well worth a visit after a dry spell as these rocks are well secluded and dry slowly in the winter (face east). Over a hundred climbs, most in the 5b/c bracket although there are a few easier climbs. Because of recent clearing of shrubs access to the rocks is a bit more pleasant than it used to be but this is still a quieter and less visited area than most. Climbs are in the region of 20ft and are reached by the footpath which navigates around the rock from the south via the new car park. Climbs start with "Siesta Wall 5b" just above the car park and go on up the path north to "Portcullis 5c" but hidden away in the forest and undergrowth to the South West is a small esoteric area worth a quick peek on a hot day. No bolts are available for belays so tying to trees is commonplace but can be a bit prickly.

 

Siesta Wall 5b.  Climber Graham West May 2002.

  • Innominate Buttress 6a. Climber Robin Mazinke May 2002.

  • Siesta Wall 5b.  One of the hardest 5b's in the book I reckon. Take the crack under the overhang and go almost straight up (slightly right) with a rest above the roof. Really difficult to get started and not a good climb to start progressing to the 5b grade. This used to be the first climb up on the left but Close to You 6a starts a foot or so to the left up the bulge.

Innominate Buttress 6a Just to the right of Siesta Wall is a slight bulge before a large crack, Take this directly up the bulge to a difficult stance above the roof and an easier finish. some give it 5c.

Innominate Crack 5a.  The obvious crack on the right.

Equilibrium Wall 5a/b     Climber Graham West May 2002.

Equilibrium Wall 5a/b     Climber Graham West May 2002.

Equilibrium Wall 5a/b. Start to the left of the large gap and make your way  carefully across to the left and an easy exit (see photos). Nuthin Fancy 5b.            Climber Martin Randall May 2002.

Nuthin Fancy 5b. Just to the right of the large gap is a tricky start to wall and small break.

 

Climber on Nuthin Fancy 5b with the Arete of Libra easily visable on his right.....            Climber Martin Randall May 2002.

Libra 5b. Start almost as for Nuthin and trend right upToo Short 5c. Robin on his own route. May 2002. Too Short 5c. Robin on his own route. May 2002.the obvious mild arête.

Too Short 5c. About 5ft right of Libra. Difficult start on a small overhang then trend slightly left to an almost impossible reach for the short (nice name) to a nice hole.

 

Trainer Drainer 5c

 

Too Short 5c               Climber Martin Randal May 2002

Too Short 5c               Climber Martin Randal May 2002l

Too Short 5c               Climber Martin Randal May 2002l

Trainer Drainer 5c. The difficult overhanging start to a nice jug then move out left, not right !

Hanging Crack 5a. Take the crack straight up. See the photo, Trainer Drainer can be seen on the left of Loz

 

Prowess 6a.      Climber Martin Randall May 2002

Prowess 6a.      Climber Martin Randall May 2002

 

Prowess 6a.The next arête. Finish up the double arête.

 

 

Flack crack with Cracking Up on the right.

 

Flake Crack 3a. Take the crack. Harder than it looks.

Cracking Up 6a. Take the right hand side of the obvious crack

 

 

Too Short To Mention 6a.Too Short To Mention 6a.Too Short To Mention 6a.

...A few yards on is a little cave with some interesting 6a problems. Parisian Affair 6a starts immediately on the left hand side of the cave with Too Short To Mention 6a taking the first section of the roof. Parisian Affair has a cheat start by leaning left off the boulder next door (if you want to cheat ?).

Even Shorter Mention 6a      Climber Robin MazinkieEven Shorter Mention 6aEven Shorter Mention 6a      Climber Robin MazinkieThe photos     left/right  show the cave  routes.

The Cave system.

      

 

 

 

Sandstorm Area.  Sirocco 6b. (Banned Area) Takes the left hand side of the vertical crack.

Sandstorm 6a. Takes the right side of the crack. Take the overhang and move left, then into a scoop on the right. Exit where you can!

The Crunch 6b. Take the soft arête to the right of Sandstorm direct or via traverse (right). Up the arête and then on to the exit of Sandman.

More Cake for me 6b.Where the traverse for The Crunch starts go up?

 

An older photo of the Amphitheatre area. Usually very green and damp.

Moving north along the path via an S bend the following climbs are reached.

Roman Nose ....wintwr 1999

Winter 1999.

         Roman Nose area

At the end of the outcrop system is the Portcullis Area, marked by a castle buttress shaped block of sandstone which melts into the earth at its western flank. 

 

Portcullis    1999

Portcullis 5c.PORTCULLIS 5c. Take the obvious crack under the big square block, this takes you easily out right to the base of the block and a small roof. Go out left then right on the wall to small holds and finish on the left  of the block. Some use a heel hook on the left arête to gain stability.

Battlement Crack 5a.

Steamroller 5c ...

BATTLEMENT CRACK 5a. Just to the left of Portcullis is a large crack. Go up the crack and then move out left to trickier holds and a difficult sandy finish. Fully recommended!!

 

 

Steamroller 5c

STEAMROLLER 5c. Just to the left of Battlement Crack ....Up the centre of the wallPortcullis area ...April 2002  Climber (Graham West) on Steamroller 5c. to a difficult finish. Some say it's a 6a?

BARBICAN BUTTRESS 4b. Tricky little number this! up the crack left of Steamroller to a difficult move to finish slightly left.

 

 

The Ed on Columnar Buttress

Barbican Buttress 4b. Something a little different.  Just west of the car park through the trees finds a Columnar Boulder with a couple of short but fun climbs." Columnar Buttress 4a" and "Primrose 4c".

Further to the right on the boulder in the moss is "Japs Eye 5b". Horrible finish up green stuff.